Austria runs the Swiss and French Alps close for variety and quality, and in one respect it leads: value. Austrian resorts are consistently less expensive than their Swiss equivalents for accommodation, food and drink, yet the skiing is often just as good. This guide covers the five Austrian resorts that consistently appear on serious skiers' shortlists.
Kitzbühel — prestige and the Hahnenkamm
Kitzbühel is one of the oldest ski resorts in the world and retains a medieval town centre that sets it apart from purpose-built competition. The Hahnenkamm downhill race — held every January — is the most prestigious event in the World Cup calendar and the Streif course, which drops 860 vertical metres at gradients up to 85%, is visibly terrifying even when you're just watching from the bottom. For intermediate and advanced skiers, the Kitzbüheler Alpen ski area covers 236km across 54 lifts. The town itself — boutiques, gourmet restaurants, a casino — is the most sophisticated après-ski scene in Austria.
St. Anton am Arlberg — Austria's off-piste capital
St. Anton is to off-piste what Kitzbühel is to glamour — the reference point. The resort is part of the Ski Arlberg area (305km of marked runs) and sits at the head of the Arlberg pass, where snowfall is reliably heavy. The Valluga ridge, reached at the top of the Vallugabahn gondola, gives access to some of the most demanding terrain in the Alps; the Schindlerkar is a classic intermediate bowl that skiers come back for year after year. St. Anton's aprés-ski (the Krazy Kanguruh bar on the slope, Mooserwirt at the bottom) has its own mythology.
Ischgl — 238km and the best nightlife in the Alps
Ischgl connects with Samnaun in Switzerland, giving 238km of runs spread across two countries. The skiing leans intermediate — lots of well-groomed red runs at altitude — but the resort's real attraction is the après-ski. Top Alm and Kuhstall are legendary; the season-opening and closing concerts (past acts have included Rihanna, Elton John and Taylor Swift) draw 15,000 people to a stage at 2,300m. If you want serious skiing AND serious nightlife in the same resort, Ischgl is without competition.
Saalbach-Hinterglemm — the intermediate's paradise
Saalbach is one of Austria's most underrated resorts. The Skicircus Saalbach Hinterglemm Leogang Fieberbrunn connects four resorts in a 270km circuit; the skiing is almost entirely intermediate, with long red runs and a remarkably efficient lift system. It is popular with Austrian families and Dutch visitors, which keeps the atmosphere relaxed compared to the more international resorts. Snowfall is reliable from December, and the resort village is genuinely charming.
Lech and Zürs — understated luxury
Lech and Zürs, connected to St. Anton via the Ski Arlberg pass, are the quiet end of Austria's best ski area. The skiing is exceptional (north-facing slopes, deep powder after storms) and the hotels are some of the finest in the Alps. It is expensive — comparable to Verbier or Zermatt — but the combination of low-key atmosphere, excellent terrain and outstanding food makes it a favourite for those who have been everywhere else. Zürs is the smaller, more exclusive of the two.
